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 You can win this engine, no purchase necessary. All you have to do is attend the Chrysler’s at Carsile event this July 09. The engine will be given away on Sunday afternoon and you must be present to win. For exact details check out the web site http://www.carlisleevents.com/ce/events/chrysler-nationals/ .
Last year we built a 505” 440 that made just over 600 HP and 660 ft/lbs of torque. For this years project we decide to do a low deck engine and tone down the power output a little do make a more docile yet still VERY strong combination. The exact output of the engine is being withheld as there maybe some sort of giveaway to who can guess how much power it made. Don’t quote me on that because details have not been finalized.
The engine: We based this year’s giveaway on a 383. We chose our Muscle Motors brand stroker kit featuring a 4.25 stroke. H-beam rods, Diamond pistons and Clevite bearings and Federal Mogul rings complete this balanced rotating assembly. Milodon supplied the ultra low profile oil pan, windage tray, HV oil pump, bronze distributor drive, and Stainless Steel valves for the heads. Comp Cams supplied the timing chain, hydraulic roller cam & lifters, valve springs, locks, retainers, seals, pushrods and 8620 Chromemoly steel rocker arms. The heads we decided to keep the “sleeper look” by using a set of Muscle Motors CNC ported 906 cylinder heads. The idea behind CNC porting a set of 906’s is maximum flow yet maintaining a OEM appearance. There are more cost effective ways to get a set of good flowing heads. The Edelbrock Performer RPM would be more cost effective but again our goal was to maintain a “sleeper” appearance. The heads are topped off with a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and a Quick Fuel 830 cfm Super Street carb.
This 489 cubic inch 383 with 906 heads and a hydraulic roller cammed engine has a 1960’s appearance with 2000’s technology. No one will know your “383” has a Stroker rotating assembly, hydraulic roller cam, and CNC ported, unleaded compatible heads. This engine will be right at home in any Mopar engine bay. Make sure you attend the 2009 Chrysler’s at Carsile for your chance to win this engine FOR FREE!!!!!
2009 Engine giveaway Presented by:
Muscle Motors
Mopar Muscle Magazine
Carsile Events
Comp Cams
Diamond Racing Products
Edelbrock
Federal Mogul
Mahle/Clevite
Milodon
Quick Fuel Technology
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Tony Raffin’s 70 Cuda. Right now the finishing detail touches are being completed. Nitrous supply lines, updated Racepak sensors and a few plumbing details. After that a little bit of lettering and then a day or two of track rental to get everything dialed in and then into competition. When that will be depends on weather. Tony needs some seat time and a ½ dozen shake down runs before we put him and the new car into Top Sportsman & Q 16 racing
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 Muscle Mike of MMR
So here are some pictures and tips on how to deal with spiral locks. In my 22+ years of building engines and installing (read: fighting, swearing, cut thumbs and fingers) spiral locks I have learned a few tricks I will share with you today. First we will talk about installing them. This is easier than removing them but I can still be tricky. To do this properly you MUST have a few tools. 1) Safety glasses 2) a small set of jewelry screwdrivers. You can pick up a set at the dollar store but I SRONGLY recommend getting a quality mini screwdriver from a tool provider. Matco, Snap On, Mac, or even Sears’s sells these and they will set you back $5-$10 a piece. These are not the typical “small” screw drivers that come in standard kits. These are mini screwdrivers for working on watches or clocks. TRUST ME, in the long run you will understand why these tools are a good investment.  
The most important thing to remember about removing spiral locks is that it is very critical how you install them. What I mean by this is: how you locate and start the spiral lock will determine where the lock stops. Where the lock stops is the single most important part of removing them at a later date. It may not seem like a big deal now but trust me it will be. First you should gently pull apart the spiral lock so it looks like this.
This will allow you to easily “walk” the lock in to the groove. I always start my leading edge of a spiral lock at one of two places, 8 o’clock or 2 o’clock. I then use the mini screwdriver to push the lock down into the groove and “walk” the lock around the hole until the entire lock is installed.
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 Muscle Motors is proud to introduce our latest product for the Mopar racer. If you have ever tried to transport an expensive race crankshaft you know difficult it can be. Good crank boxes will only last so long and are hard to come by. To resolve this problem we now have injected molded plastic crank boxes. They come with rubber inserts for the main journal to prevent damage in transport. They also have metal inserts that accept a 3/8 cap screw so you can securely attach the top and bottom pieces. These boxes will work with big and small block crankshafts and we have sent cranks back and forth across the country a number of times in the same box with ZERO issues. Our introductory sale price is $49.95. Boxes are in stock and we will also have them at the Indy trade show March 7th & 8th. If you have any questions please call us @ 888 482 4900.
If you purchase one of our stroker kits you can purchase a crank box for shipping for an additional $40 dollars!!
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 Over the past 20 years we have acquired over 35 sets of canceled, mis-ordered or incorrect custom forged pistons. Rather than list them I have made a spread sheet of these pistons with bore size, wrist pin, ring package and head configuration. I have piston for small and big block as well as Hemi. All sets are $250 a set, first come first serve.
Mike @ MMR
Click here for printer friendly version!
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The real reason on why “my cam won’t turn” |
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Muscle Mike of MMR
My problem solving nature never accepted the “just carve on them” solution (cure the problem, not the symptom!). I mean they make rod and main bearings within a few ten thousandths, why aren’t the cam bearings just as consistent (PS, they do make cam bearings just as consistent). So in a moment of clarity, I thought, if the bearings are being made correctly maybe I should check the block. I then started measuring the actual bearing bores in the block. This specification, by the way, is in every bearing book in every machine shop on the planet. What I discovered made everything I had struggled with for years make sense. Of the first 10 bocks I measured, not one of them was within spec on ANY bearing bore! Most were ½ to 1 thousands tight!!! To this day I have yet to measure a stock block that doesn’t need at least 2 or 3 housings opened up. The worst example was about 5 years ago when I measured a factory block that the #2 cam bearing was .003 tight!!!
Now the main reason most machine shops don’t measure this dimension is that even if they found something wrong, most shops don’t have the proper equipment to properly hone the cam bearing bores in the block! Due to stock blocks ALWAYS having some level of cam bearing fitment issues, our standard procedure at Muscle Motors is to hone ALL stock block cam bearing bores. This ensures if you get just a machined block or a short block from Muscle Motors, your cam will fit every time with no problem.
If you are having a block machined (at a shop of your choice) PLEASE insist that the shop measures (and corrects) the cam bearing bores BEFORE they install the cam bearings. This will save you time, effort, stress and the need to “carve on them to make ‘em fit……………….
Mike @ MM
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Muscle Motors Engine Slideshow |
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